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North
Wales is fortunate in having a diverse range of rock that we,
as climbers, can explore. For beginners there are short friendly
crags to cut your teeth on and for those that are more experienced
there is no better selection of long mountain and sea cliff
expeditions.
Below
are some pictures of crags commonly used on courses, with some
example routes just to give you a taster for whats on offer.
Please Click on the Images
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The heart
of Snowdonia consists of mainly volcanic rhyolite rock creating
classic venues such as Dinas Cromlech down the Llanberis Pass
and Idwal Slabs in Ogwen Valley. These offer 3 star routes at
all grades from 2 to 5+ pitches in length. Please view the topos
below of the more popular crags.
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Dinas Cromlech
Well documented crag with famous routes such
as Cenotaph Corner, marked above, and harder classics, Left
and Right Wall at E2 & E5 respectivly.
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Clogwyn y Grochan
Situated close to the road it has
easily accessible routes. A number of long 3 starred VS routes
make it a popular choice
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Carreg Wasted
Home to some popular V Diff and Severe routes.
Crackstone Rib is a well climbed and often photographed route.
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Dinas Mot
Situated on the south side of the Pass, the climbing
is mainly on slabs. The direct route is well known for its last
pitch requiring a bunk-up from your belayer to achieve the grade
of VS.
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Milestone Buttress
Roadside with a good selection of V Diff routes.
Rock is compact and solid and is home to Superdirect a fine
route up cracks and aretes.
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Idwal Slabs
Great location. Long routes over 150m long from
classic Diffs to routes in the E grades. Stunning location
in the mountains.
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To the South of
the National Park is the ever popular Tremadog. Set in an often
sunny micro-climate, its the location of many roadside routes,
2 or 3 pitches in length, all over-looking Porthmadog estuary.
A popular place for your first multi-pitch route.
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Craig Bwlch y Moch - Shadrach Buttress
Craig Bwlch y Moch is roadside
with routes of 2 to 3 pitches in length. Everything from Christmas
Curry (S) to the Plum (E1) to Cream (E4) and harder. Compact
rock, sunny position and ease of acess make it a popular venue.
Shadrach Buttress has many VS and HVS climbs.
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Craig Bwlch y Moch - Vector Buttress
The steep buttress with routes E2 and above weaving
their way through the overhangs. The classic is Vector that
climbs to a hanging slab then exiting past various roofs. A
VS, One Step in the Clouds, spectacularly traverses above all
the steeper ground.
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photo to be inserted soon
Craig Pant Ifan
A short walk above the road, the crag consists
of a three star severe Poor Man's Peuterey and the well postioned
HVS Scratch Arete. Amongst the slabs and overhangs harder routes
such as Barbarian (E1), Pincushion (E2) and Silly Arete (E3)
weave their way.

Just
outside the tourist town of Llanberis are the slate quarries,
steeped in history and packed with quick drying, short, technical
routes. Another useful venue is the volcanic crags above Festiniog,
where many Diffs and Severs can be found on a rough rock that
can be climbed even when wet.
Next to the often
sunny sea-side resort of Llandudno is the Orme. Home to the
sport climbers limestone paradise. Steep routes and small crimps
- if you climb F6a or above then its an ideal place. The other
sea venue is the formidable Gogarth on Anglesey, no bolts but
long adventurous traditional routes. Exciting positions, committing
abseils and memorable trips. A must for any budding climber.
Bouldering venues
are scattered amongst all the described crags and is often used
to develop climbing technique in a social, relaxed and friendly
setting.
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Gareth Davies ¦
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