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North Wales is fortunate in having a diverse range of rock that we, as climbers, can explore. For beginners there are short friendly crags to cut your teeth on and for those that are more experienced there is no better selection of long mountain and sea cliff expeditions.

Below are some pictures of crags commonly used on courses, with some example routes just to give you a taster for whats on offer.

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The heart of Snowdonia consists of mainly volcanic rhyolite rock creating classic venues such as Dinas Cromlech down the Llanberis Pass and Idwal Slabs in Ogwen Valley. These offer 3 star routes at all grades from 2 to 5+ pitches in length. Please view the topos below of the more popular crags.

Routes on Dinas Cromlech

Dinas Cromlech

Well documented crag with famous routes such as Cenotaph Corner, marked above, and harder classics, Left and Right Wall at E2 & E5 respectivly.

Routes on Clogwyn y Grochan

Clogwyn y Grochan

Situated close to the road it has easily accessible routes. A number of long 3 starred VS routes make it a popular choice

Carreg Wasted

Home to some popular V Diff and Severe routes. Crackstone Rib is a well climbed and often photographed route.

Dinas Mot

Situated on the south side of the Pass, the climbing is mainly on slabs. The direct route is well known for its last pitch requiring a bunk-up from your belayer to achieve the grade of VS.

 

Milestone Buttress

Roadside with a good selection of V Diff routes. Rock is compact and solid and is home to Superdirect a fine route up cracks and aretes.

Idwal Slabs

Great location. Long routes over 150m long from classic Diffs to routes in the E grades. Stunning location in the mountains.

To the South of the National Park is the ever popular Tremadog. Set in an often sunny micro-climate, its the location of many roadside routes, 2 or 3 pitches in length, all over-looking Porthmadog estuary. A popular place for your first multi-pitch route.

Tremadog - Shadrach Buttress

Craig Bwlch y Moch - Shadrach Buttress

Craig Bwlch y Moch is roadside with routes of 2 to 3 pitches in length. Everything from Christmas Curry (S) to the Plum (E1) to Cream (E4) and harder. Compact rock, sunny position and ease of acess make it a popular venue. Shadrach Buttress has many VS and HVS climbs.

Tremadog - Vector Buttress

Craig Bwlch y Moch - Vector Buttress

The steep buttress with routes E2 and above weaving their way through the overhangs. The classic is Vector that climbs to a hanging slab then exiting past various roofs. A VS, One Step in the Clouds, spectacularly traverses above all the steeper ground.

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Craig Pant Ifan

A short walk above the road, the crag consists of a three star severe Poor Man's Peuterey and the well postioned HVS Scratch Arete. Amongst the slabs and overhangs harder routes such as Barbarian (E1), Pincushion (E2) and Silly Arete (E3) weave their way.

Just outside the tourist town of Llanberis are the slate quarries, steeped in history and packed with quick drying, short, technical routes. Another useful venue is the volcanic crags above Festiniog, where many Diffs and Severs can be found on a rough rock that can be climbed even when wet.

Next to the often sunny sea-side resort of Llandudno is the Orme. Home to the sport climbers limestone paradise. Steep routes and small crimps - if you climb F6a or above then its an ideal place. The other sea venue is the formidable Gogarth on Anglesey, no bolts but long adventurous traditional routes. Exciting positions, committing abseils and memorable trips. A must for any budding climber.

Bouldering venues are scattered amongst all the described crags and is often used to develop climbing technique in a social, relaxed and friendly setting.

 

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Sea 2 Summit ¦ Gareth Davies ¦ info@sea2summit.net